The Garden Gate

This is a drawing done by a local artist Jim Knoke's who actually built this garden gate out of iron leading to our front door.
The artist sketches are as beautiful as the gate he built.
I asked him if he could create the Kiwi leaves coming down the gate out of old rusty steel.
He hadn't done this type of project before,
but cherished the challenge.
I sent him pictures of actual Kiwi leaves and he made patterns of them to place on steel.
He made sure the edges of the leaves would be safe
with no cutting edges.
A one of a kind masterpiece of art.
It's a beautiful gate no matter what the season is.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

October garden chores from OSU extension

October 2009

Garden hints from your OSU Extension Agent

Oregon State University Extension Service encourages sus- tainable gardening practices. Preventative pest management is emphasized over reactive pest control. Identify and monitor problems before acting, and opt for the least toxic approach that will remedy the problem.

First consider cultural, and then physical controls. The con- servation of biological control agents (predators, parasitoids) should be favored over the purchase and release of biological controls. Use chemical controls only when necessary, only after identifying a pest problem, and only after thoroughly reading the pesticide label. Least-toxic choices include insec- ticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides — when used judiciously.

Recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local Extension office at: http://extension. oregonstate.edu/locations.php.

Planning

If needed, improve soil drainage needs of lawns before rain begins.

Register to become an OSU Master Gardener volunteer with your locaL Extension office. For more information, check: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/em/ em8723.pdf

Maintenance and Clean Up

Drain or blow out your irrigation system, insulate valve mechanisms, in preparation of winter.

Recycle disease-free plant material and kitchen vegetable and fruit scraps into compost. Dont compost diseased plants unless you are using the “hot compost” method (120° to 150°F).

Use newspaper or cardboard covered by mulch to discourage winter and spring annual weeds or remove a lawn area for conversion to garden beds. For conversion, work in the paper and mulch as organic matter once the lawn grass has died.

Clean and paint greenhouses and cold frames for plant storage and winter growth.

Harvest sunflower heads; use seed for birdseed or roast for personal use.

Dig and store potatoes; keep in darkness, moderate humidity, temperature about 40°F. Discard unused potatoes if they sprout. Don’t use as seed potatoes for next year.

Harvest and immediately dry filberts and walnuts; dry at 95° to 100°F.

Ripen green tomatoes indoors. Check often and discard rotting fruit.

Harvest and store apples; keep at about 40°F, moderate humidity.

Place mulch over roots of roses, azaleas, rhododendrons and berries for winter protection.

Trim or stake bushy herbaceous perennials to prevent wind damage.

To suppress future pest problems, clean up annual flower beds by removing diseased plant materials, overwintering

Oregon State University Extension Service encourages sustainable garden- ing practices. Always identify and monitor problems before acting. First consider cultural controls; then physical, biological, and chemical controls (which include insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, botanical insecticides, organic and synthetic pesticides). Always consider the least toxic approach first.

All recommendations in this calendar are not necessarily applicable to all areas of Oregon. For more information, contact your local office of the OSU Extension Service.

areas for insect pests; mulch with manure or garden compost to feed the soil and suppress weeds.

Cover asparagus and rhubarb beds with a mulch of manure or compost.

Clean, sharpen and oil tools and equipment before storing for winter.

Store garden supplies and fertilizers in a safe, dry place out of reach of children.

Prune out dead fruiting canes in raspberries.

Western Oregon: Harvest squash and pumpkins; keep in dry area at 55° to 60°F.

Western Oregon: If necessary (as indicated by soil test results) and if weather permits, spade organic material and lime into garden soil.

Central/eastern Oregon: Prune evergreens.

Planting/Propagation

Dig and divide rhubarb. (Should be done about every 4 years.)

Plant garlic for harvesting next summer.

Propagate chrysanthemums, fuchsias, geraniums by stem cuttings.

Save seeds from the vegetable and flower garden. Dry, date, label, and store in a cool and dry location.

Plant ground covers and shrubs.

Dig and store geraniums, tuberous begonias, dahlias, gladiolas.

Pot and store tulips and daffodils to force into early bloom, indoors, in December and January.

Pest Monitoring and Management

Monitor landscape plants for problems. Don’t treat unless a problem is identified.

Remove and dispose of windfall apples that might be harboring apple maggot or codling moth larvae.

Rake and destroy diseased leaves (apple, cherry, rose, etc.), or hot compost diseased leaves.

Spray apple and stone fruit trees at leaf fall to prevent various fungal and bacterial diseases. Obtain a copy of Managing Diseases and Insects in Home Orchards (EC 631) from your local Extension office or online.

If moles and gophers are a problem, consider traps.

Western Oregon: Control fall-germinating lawn weeds while they are small. Hand weeding and weeding tools are particularly effective at this stage.

Houseplants and Indoor Gardening

Early October: reduce water, place in cool area (50-550F) and increase time in shade or darkness (12-14 hours) to force Christmas cactus to bloom in late December.

Place hanging pots of fuchsias where they won’t freeze. Don’t cut back until spring.

Western Oregon: Check/treat houseplants for disease and insects before bringing indoors.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Bosc Pear



Bosc Pear

(Scientific Binomial Name: Pyrus communis)

Selection Information


Usage: Eaten fresh, in salads or use in fruit baskets.

Selection: A Good-quality Bosc pear will be medium-sized or larger with no bruises and only a few minor scuff marks. The coloring will be dark yellow with a cinnamon russeting of the skin. Pears are ripe when they yield to gentle pressure at the stem end.

Avoid: Avoid product with soft spots or scars that are more than skin-deep. Product that is extremely hard will ripen best at room temperature.

Storage: Handle with care, especially when fully ripe. Ripen in a cool, dark place. Pears may be refrigerated for a few days.


Seasonal Information


Bosc pears are grown in California, Washington, and Oregon, Australia, British Columbia and Europe. Available in the US August through May.


Bosc Pear Nutritional Information


Serving Size: 1 medium Bosc Pear (166g)

Amount Per Serving

Calories 100
Calories from Fat 1

% Daily Value*

Total Fat 0

0%

Cholesterol 0mg

0%

Sodium 0mg

0%

Total Carbohydrate 25g

7%

Dietary Fiber 4g

Sugars

Protein 1g

Vitamin A 0%

Vitamin C 10%

Calcium 2%

Iron 2%

*Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. Your daily values may be higher or lower depending on your calorie needs.

Source: PMA's Labeling Facts


Bosc Pears are low-fat, sodium-free, and cholesterol-free. They're also a great source of fiber and vitamin C.


Pear Tips & Trivia

  • People have cultivated and enjoyed pears for thousands of years.

  • There is a record dating back to 5,000 B.C. of a Chinese diplomat, Feng Li, forgoing his responsibilities to grow several varieties of fruit for a living.

  • In The Odyssey, the Greek poet Homer calls pears a "gift of the gods."

  • Pear trees arrived in the Americas with early colonists but weren't successfully cultivated until they were brought west by settlers.

Bosc Pear Recipes